you're using the scale on the advance knob to measure the degrees of advance. Note that in all the cases where you're using the advance knob. You have now used your advance timing light to set the maximum ignition advance your engine can handle for its mechanical condition and accounting for the fuel that you buy. At that point, measure and record your advance at idle. retarding the timing in 2 degree steps until you no longer hear pinging. If you hear pinging, pull over and use the timing light (at idle will be fine) to retard the timing 2 degrees. Try accelerating uphill in a gear that's higher than called for (a hill that's best taken in 3rd, put the car in 4th and floor the accelerator). During the drive put the car under heavy load. Reconnect the vacuum advance and take the car on a test drive. Reduce the idle speed to "normal" and use the gun to see where your idle advance is after setting it at 4000 RPM. Turn the dizzy until the zero mark on the pulley lines up with the zero pointer mark, then tighten the dizzy down. Fire the timing light at the crank pulley and note where the marks are. With the dizzy clamp loosened, bring the engine RPM up to 4000 RPM using the idle screws. Set the gun's advance dial to 32 degrees. To set this on your engine, disconnect and plug the vacuum advance as mentioned above. Most cars can stand about 32-35 degrees of TOTAL ignition advance. Now let's talk about timing your car to it's maximum advance. When you hit 3000 RPM the mark on the pulley and the zero mark on the pointer should be close to alignment if the advance is working properly. Now bring the RPM up either using the throttle or the idle screws. Turn the advance knob to 28 and point it at the crank pulley. Now add the 20 degrees to the idle timing you observed (say you measured 8 BTDC at idle and you add 20 to that for a total of 28 degrees). Start the engine and read where the idle advance is using the light as set above. Let's say you have a spec that says your distributor should be giving you an increase of 20 degrees of timing at 3000 RPM. Now let's move on to using the advance knob. Stop when the marks are where you want them then tighten the distributor clamp again. While still firing the timing light, use your other hand to gently twist the dizzy and you'll observe the timing mark on the pulley moves relative to the pointer. Determine if you need to advance or retard the timing. Point the timing light at the pulley and read the relationship of the pointer and the mark on the pulley. Restart the engine and set the idle speed where your specs say it should be (disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line also). JUST BARELY LOOSEN, you don't want the distributor to move at this point. If it's necessary (or you want) to adjust/change your ignition timing, stop the engine and loosen the bolt(s) securing your distributor to the block. Read what's going on with the timing marks. This will appear to freeze the relationship of the pulley to the pointer. The strobe should fire each time #1 spark plug fires. Start the car's engine, point the gun at the timing marks (presumably on the front of your engine) and squeeze the gun's trigger. Turn the knob until the its pointer lines up with its zero mark (turn the advance function OFF). Start learning to use your gun WITHOUT the advance knob. The arrow should point towards the spark plug. The inductive clamp lead goes around the spark plug wire for cylinder #1. The second lead will be the black one and it goes to a good, bare earthing point, preferably on the block or head. Connect that to a source of +12V (perhaps the solenoid). I've been waiting for your post since you bought the gun. A link to the original thread can be found here This FAQ relates to any Mini with normal distributor ignition (excluding SPi's), but please note it does NOT contain any specific settings for the timing on any particular Mini. This isn't written by me, its written by one of the forums technical experts - dklawson.
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